Kazimierz
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| Reminders of the tragic history of Kazimierz |
Kazimierz Kraków: The Jewish Quarter, What to See and Where to Explore
Rundown, atmospheric, historic and wonderfully characterful. Kazimierz is one of those places in Kraków that you really need to wander around rather than simply tick off a list of obvious sights.
Once the historic centre of Jewish life in Kraków, Kazimierz has had a turbulent history. Today it is one of the most interesting areas of the city, packed with synagogues, churches, museums, atmospheric courtyards, quirky bars, cafés, restaurants, street art, flea markets and some of the best people watching in Kraków.
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| Klezmer Hois, Kazimierz |
It is also an area of contrasts. You can turn a corner and find a beautifully restored building, only to walk another few metres and discover a battered graffitied one that looks as though nobody has touched it since 1978. Somehow, this is part of the charm.
For me, Kazimierz is best explored slowly. Don't rush from one attraction to another. Wander down the side streets, look through the courtyards, peruse the shops, stop for a coffee or a beer, and see what you discover.
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| Kamienica courtyard of Schindler's List fame |
What to See in Kazimierz
- A Short History of Kazimierz
- Getting to Kazimierz
- Plac Wolnica and Corpus Christi Church
- Explore ul. Józefa
- Szeroka Street and the Jewish Quarter
- Synagogues of Kazimierz
- Plac Nowy
- Bars, Cafés and Food in Kazimierz
- Beyond Plac Nowy
- Judah Food Truck Square and Street Art
- The New Jewish Cemetery
- My Take on Kazimierz
A Short History of Kazimierz
Kazimierz was once a separate town, founded in the 14th century by King Casimir the Great. Over the centuries it developed into an important centre of Jewish life and culture.
For around 500 years Jewish communities lived, worked and worshipped here. The district developed its own character, traditions and institutions, and Jewish life became an integral part of Kraków's history.
Then came the Second World War.
The Nazi occupation destroyed the Jewish community of Kraków. Residents were forced from their homes and moved across the river to the ghetto in Podgórze, before many were ultimately murdered in the Holocaust.
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| Inhabitants of Kazimierz being forced to leave and cross the river to the ghetto in Podgórze by the Nazis (photo used with kind permission of the Holocaust Research Project) |
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| The exact same corner in Kazimierz today with Hevre Bar now occupying the former prayer house |
The effect on Kazimierz was devastating. After the war the district became a neglected area of crumbling buildings, empty apartments and neglected courtyards. Much of the Jewish community that had given Kazimierz its identity was gone.
For many years Kazimierz was one of those areas of Kraków that visitors simply did not bother with.
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| Ciemna in 1990 |
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| Abandoned buildings in Kazimierz |
That eventually changed.
Following the collapse of communism and Poland's subsequent transformation, Kazimierz slowly began to come back to life. Old buildings were restored, cafés and bars appeared, artists moved in and visitors started to discover what had been hiding here for decades.
The area was also given a huge international boost by Steven Spielberg's film Schindler's List, much of which was filmed in and around Kraków.
Today Kazimierz is one of the city's most popular districts, but fortunately it has just about retained enough of its rough edges to remain interesting.
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| Eszeweria, legendary Kazimierz pub |
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| Ulica Szeroka Street, Kazimierz |
And that is important. Kazimierz should not simply be viewed as a collection of trendy bars and Instagram friendly courtyards. Its history is everywhere, and it is impossible to understand the area properly without acknowledging what happened here.
Getting to Kazimierz from Kraków Old Town
Kazimierz is easy to reach on foot from the Old Town. It takes roughly 20 minutes depending on how quickly you walk.
I recommend walking rather than taking transport. The transition from the grand buildings of the Old Town into the much more eclectic streets of Kazimierz is part of the experience.
A small warning: Kraków's pedestrian crossings are not suggestions. Don't assume that being a tourist gives you diplomatic immunity from Polish traffic regulations, which include a fine for jaywalking.
Plac Wolnica and Corpus Christi Church
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| Former town hall building on Plac Wolnica |
A little history: Plac Wolnica was originally the main market square of the medieval town of Kazimierz. The square was surrounded by the town's important buildings, including the town hall, and remained the commercial heart of Kazimierz for centuries.
Today the impressive former town hall building now dominates the square and houses the Ethnographic Museum. The square itself is a much quieter place to begin exploring Kazimierz.
Ethnographic Museum
Don't be put off by the name. "Ethnographic Museum" sounds like somewhere you might be sentenced to spend a wet Tuesday afternoon, but this is actually a fascinating place.
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| Inspiration for the Wicker Man in the Ethnographic Museum? |
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| Rural life housing in the Ethnographic Museum |
The displays provide an insight into traditional Polish life, with reconstructed rural interiors, folk costumes, religious objects, quotes from civilians living in extreme poverty, and examples of Polish customs and traditions.
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| Tuck into wonderful fresh Czech beer and food at Hospůdka u Nás on ul. Mostowa |
There are also plenty of cafés and restaurants around Plac Wolnica and along nearby ul. Mostowa, making it a pleasant place to stop for a coffee, food or a drink.
Corpus Christi Church
From Plac Wolnica head towards the imposing Corpus Christi Church on ul. Bożego Ciała.
A little history: Corpus Christi Church dates back to the 14th century and was founded shortly after Kazimierz was established as a separate town by King Casimir the Great. The church and monastery became one of the important Christian centres of Kazimierz, existing alongside the Jewish community that later developed here.
As with many of Kraków's churches, the exterior gives little warning of what is waiting inside. The interior is richly decorated and well worth seeing.
Explore ul. Józefa
From Corpus Christi Church, turn into ul. Józefa.
A little history: Józefa Street was originally known as Sukiennicza, and later Żydowska, before taking its present name. It formed part of the boundary of the historic Jewish town, and at No. 11 there was once a rather unusual arrangement: students from the nearby Corpus Christi Church charged Jewish residents a transit fee when they wanted to pass through towards the city centre. Today, thankfully, you can walk along Józefa without having to rummage around for your loose change!
This is one of my favourite streets in Kazimierz because it combines so many of the things that make the district interesting. There are small shops, cafés, bars, courtyards, vintage shops, galleries and plenty of buildings that have clearly seen better days.
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| Szalom Gallery |
In Kazimierz, that is not necessarily a criticism.
The Schindler's List Courtyards
At number 5 ul. Józefa is a courtyard that featured in Schindler's List. It was used for the famous scene showing Nazis emptying the ghetto.
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| The courtyard used for the famous scene in "Schindler's List" when the Nazis are emptying the Ghetto |
Further along, number 12 Józefa is another courtyard associated with the film. The Kamienica passageway was used to film the scene where Mrs Dresner hides under the stairway during the emptying of the Ghetto.
Today the atmospheric passageway is filled with old furniture, rugs, tables, chairs and vintage objects. There are shops, a dance school and a popular vodka bar. There are also information boards describing the history of the building and its former inhabitants.
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| Kamienica courtyard |
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| Kamienica courtyard |
Mleczarnia
Hidden within the Kamienica courtyard is the summer garden of Mleczarnia, one of the classic Kazimierz cafés and bars.
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| Mleczarnia garden and the best Aperol Spritz IMO |
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| Mleczarnia cafe/bar - a very atmospheric place to spend and evening |
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| Kamienica passageway beside Mleczarnia |
The garden is particularly atmospheric in summer, surrounded by old buildings, balconies, a spreading chestnut tree, and other greenery. Drinks are served from garden huts, or from the actual cafe Mleczarnia across the street. The interior is adorned with black and white images of people from the past, and is wonderfully atmospheric.
Eszeweria
At number 9 Józefa you will find Eszeweria, another classic Kazimierz bar.
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| Eszeweria entrance on ul. Jozefa |
It is one of those places where the word "bohemian" gets used rather too easily, but here it genuinely fits. Expect mismatched furniture, old fashioned decoration, candlelight and a wonderfully atmospheric garden.
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| Eszeweria interior |
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| Eszeweria garden |
There is even a characterful toilet that has achieved something approaching tourist attraction status, not least because there is only one toilet serving the entire pub. Yes, really!
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| Eszeweria toilet - another Kazimierz legend |
That probably tells you something about Kazimierz.
Further along Józefa
As you continue towards ul. Jakuba, you enter what was once the heart of the Jewish town.
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| Shops on ul.Jozefa |
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| Mural on Jozefa depicting famous faces associated with Kazimierz including Helena Rubinstein |
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| Cafe culture on Jozefa |
Along the way you will find small shops selling artwork, crafts, vintage clothing and souvenirs. Don't be afraid to wander into courtyards. Some of the most interesting corners of Kazimierz are hidden away from the main streets.
Szeroka Street and the Jewish Quarter
Eventually ul. Józefa brings you towards Szeroka, one of the most important streets in historic Jewish Kazimierz.
Despite its name, Szeroka is less like a conventional street and more like a long, wide square.
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| Szeroka Kazimierz |
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| Szeroka Kazimierz |
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| Klezmer Hois on Szeroka |
A little history: Szeroka was at the heart of the Jewish town of Kazimierz from the late 15th century onwards. Following the decree of King John Albert in 1495, Kraków's Jewish population increasingly settled here and the area developed into a separate, largely self-governing Jewish community.
Helena Rubinstein: Szeroka also has a connection with one of the world's most famous names in cosmetics. Helena Rubinstein, born Chaja Rubinstein in 1872, spent part of her childhood at No. 14 Szeroka with her large Jewish family before leaving Kraków as a teenager and eventually building a global cosmetics empire. The building is now marked as the former home of the woman who became known as the “Empress of Beauty”.
So Szeroka was very much the centre of the Jewish life in Kazimierz, and also hosted a market. Today it is lined with restaurants, cafés, hotels and surviving synagogues.
Yes, it can be touristy. There is no point pretending otherwise.
But it is still a wonderful place to spend a warm summer evening. Musicians often perform outside, and the terraces fill with people. Sit down with a drink, watch the world go by and let the atmosphere wash over you.
I would be more cautious about choosing somewhere to eat here though. Prices have risen considerably, and you can often find better food and better value by wandering a few streets away.
The Old Synagogue
At one end of Szeroka is the Old Synagogue, or Stara Synagoga.
A little history: The Old Synagogue is one of the oldest surviving Jewish religious buildings in Poland, with its origins dating back to the 15th century. It became one of the most important synagogues of Kraków's Jewish community before being severely damaged during the Second World War.
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| Stara Synagoga |
The synagogue no longer functions as a place of worship, and now houses a museum explaining Jewish religious traditions and the history of Kraków's Jewish community.
Remuh Synagogue and Cemetery
Further along Szeroka is the Remuh Synagogue and cemetery.
A little history: The Remuh Synagogue was built in the 16th century for Rabbi Moses Isserles, known as the Remuh, one of the most important Jewish scholars of his time. His family had connections with the Jewish communities of Central Europe, including Prague, which was an important centre of Jewish learning and had strong intellectual links with Kraków. Isserles himself became Rabbi of Kraków and his writings on Jewish law influenced Ashkenazi Jewish communities across Europe.
The cemetery contains graves and tombstones dating back to the 16th century, and is one of the most significant Jewish cemeteries in Kraków.
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| The Remuh Synagogue |
The cemetery wall also contains fragments of tombstones damaged and destroyed during the Nazi occupation.
The synagogue remains an active place of worship, so remember that this is a religious site rather than simply another tourist attraction.
Once Upon a Time in Kazimierz
At the other end of Szeroka is one of the most atmospheric restaurants in the district, Dawno Temu na Kazimierzu, translated as "Once Upon a Time in Kazimierz".
The interior has been designed to recreate the atmosphere of the old Jewish quarter, and traditional food and klezmer music add to the experience. The much photographed exterior is fashioned as a row of vintage Jewish shops
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| Once Upon a Time in Kazimierz |
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The Klezmer House
Another interesting building is the Klezmer House (Klezmer Hois).
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| Klezmer-Hois |
A little history: Klezmer Hois, meaning “Klezmer House”, occupies the historic building at Szeroka 6, which was once the Great Mikveh, a Jewish ritual bath dating back to 1567. The mikveh operated here for centuries until the Second World War, when the building was devastated during the German occupation. The surviving underground pool and parts of the original structure remain beneath the building today. After the war and the revival of Kazimierz in the 1990s, the building became home to Klezmer Hois, a restaurant, hotel and bookshop, helping bring some of the old Jewish atmosphere of Szeroka back to life.
Opposite it are railings and a small garden that will be recognisable to anyone who has watched Schindler's List. It was used for the scene during the clearing of the Ghetto when a pharmacist rushes to try and help victims of Nazi shooting.
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| Holocaust memorial |
The area also contains a memorial commemorating the Jewish citizens of Kraków who were murdered during the Holocaust.
The Galicia Museum
A worthwhile side venture from Szeroka, is to veer to The Galicia Museum.
Other Synagogues of Kazimierz
One of the great things about walking around Kazimierz is the number of synagogues and former Jewish religious buildings packed into a relatively small area.
Not all can be visited, and some have sadly lost much of their original interior, but together they help explain the importance of the district.
The Remuh and Stara have already been mentioned, but below are other noteworthy synagogues.
Tempel Synagogue
The Tempel Synagogue on ul. Miodowa is particularly impressive.
A little history: The Tempel Synagogue was built in the 19th century by Kraków's progressive Jewish community, and reflects a very different period from the older synagogues around Szeroka. Its impressive interior combines 19th century European synagogue architecture with Moorish inspired decoration.
The inside is particularly beautiful, so don't just admire the exterior and walk on. In fact, its colourful interior is probably the grandest of the surviving synagogues in Kazimierz, and is well worth visiting if it is open.
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| The Tempel Synagogue |
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| The Tempel Synagogue |
The Jewish Community Centre is located nearby. It is worth popping in to learn more about contemporary Jewish life in Kraków.
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| The Tempel Synagogue |
Kupa Synagogue
Across from the Jewish Community Centre, on ul. Warszauera, is Kupa Synagogue.
A little history: Kupa Synagogue was built in the 17th century and was originally funded by the Jewish community of Kazimierz. It served the poorer members of the community and was incorporated into the former defensive area of the Jewish quarter.
The synagogue was badly damaged during the Second World War but has since been restored.
High Synagogue
The High Synagogue, or Wysoka Synagoga, is located close to the junction of Józefa and Ciemna.
A little history: The High Synagogue was built between 1556 and 1563 and was the third synagogue established in the Jewish town of Kazimierz. Its unusual name comes from the fact that the main prayer hall was built on the upper floor, rather than at street level. This unusual arrangement was partly because the synagogue stood close to the gate of the Jewish town, in a busy area next to Christian properties. The building was badly damaged and stripped of its furnishings during the Second World War, but fragments of its original decoration and the impressive stone Aron ha-Kodesh have survived.
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| The High Synagogue |
A little more history: At No. 42 Józefa Street stands the former Kowea Itim le-Tora, a house of study established in 1810 by a Jewish society dedicated to regular Torah and Talmud study. The building had previously been damaged by a fire in 1773 and was remodelled in 1912, when its distinctive Romanesque Revival appearance was created. The Nazis devastated the building during the Second World War and, after the war, it was used for social welfare before eventually becoming residential apartments.
Look closely at the façade and you can still see the Hebrew inscription and two Stars of David containing the dates 1810 and 1912. It is easy to walk past without noticing, but it is a fascinating little survivor of the Jewish community that once filled these streets.
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| Kowea Itim le-Tora |
Izaak Synagogue
The Izaak Synagogue dates from the 17th century and is another important building in this part of Kazimierz.
A little history: Izaak Synagogue was built in the 17th century and was funded by Izaak Jakubowicz, a wealthy Jewish merchant and royal banker. It became one of the most important synagogues in Kazimierz and was particularly badly damaged during the Nazi occupation. The building has undergone restoration over the years.
Plac Nowy: The Heart of Modern Kazimierz
From the Izaak Synagogue, make your way towards Plac Nowy.
This is where the character of Kazimierz changes again.
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| Plac Nowy |
A little history: The area around today's Plac Nowy formed part of the Jewish town from the late 16th century. The square was laid out and developed further in the 19th century, with the distinctive circular market building, the Okrąglak, added around 1900.
Today Plac Nowy is one of the liveliest places in Kazimierz, with markets, food stalls, bars and cafés. It has changed enormously over the years, but it has never completely lost its slightly chaotic character.
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| Cafe culture around the edges of Place Nowy |
Don't be put off by its slightly ramshackle appearance.
This is precisely what makes Plac Nowy so much fun.
The Okrąglak and Zapiekanka
A little history: The red brick Okrąglak was built around 1900 as a covered market hall. From 1927 part of the building was used as a ritual poultry slaughterhouse by the Jewish community, a use that ended during the Nazi occupation.
Today its little serving windows are famous for one thing rather more enjoyable: zapiekanka.
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| The Okrąglak |
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| You haven't experienced Krakow if you haven't eaten zapiekanka on Place Nowy |
Think of it as a Polish French bread pizza made with a long piece of bread, cheese and various toppings. It is cheap, filling and very much part of the Kazimierz experience.
There is an unofficial rule that you shouldn't leave Kraków without trying one.
Plac Nowy Market
The square also hosts various markets throughout the week.
Saturday is particularly interesting for the flea market, while Sunday brings a clothes market. Thursday was traditionally associated with the bird market. There are however usually stalls selling clothes, collectables, tat and art throughout the week.
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| Some interesting collectables on sale on Plac Nowy |
Alchemia and Singer
Two of the best known bars around Plac Nowy are Alchemia and Singer.
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| The legend that is Alchemia |
These places became part of the early revival of Kazimierz after communism, and helped establish the area's reputation for atmospheric bars, alternative culture and nightlife.
Alchemia
A little history: Alchemia became one of the best known bars in Kazimierz during the area's revival in the 1990s. Its dark, eccentric interior and collection of old furniture, helped establish the bohemian atmosphere that attracted artists, students and visitors back to the district. There is even a Narnia style wardrobe that you enter to access another room in the interior.
Even if you don't drink, it is worth seeing inside. The interiors are almost as interesting as the drinks menu.
It also hosts some interesting concerts and art exhibitions.
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| Walk through the wardrobe to get to another room |
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| A cosy night in Alchemia |
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| A cosy night in Singer |
Singer
A little history: Singer occupies a former Jewish tailoring workshop, and takes its name from the old Singer sewing machines that still form part of the decoration. Like Alchemia, it became part of the revival of Kazimierz's nightlife in the 1990s.
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| Singer |
The tables are still old sewing machines, which makes for one of the more unusual places in Kraków to have a drink. If you happen to be there on a Friday or Saturday night after midnight, beware, dancing on the tables is compulsory!
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| Singer |
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| Singer |
Bars, Cafés and Food in Kazimierz
You will by now have gathered that Kazimierz is now one of the best areas of Kraków for eating and drinking.
There is everything from traditional Polish food, Thai, Georgian, Mexican, French, Jewish inspired restaurants and much more, as well as cafés, craft beer, cocktails and street food.
One other bar/restaurant to note, aside from those already discussed, is Hevre.
Hevre
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| Hevre - former Jewish prayer house, now a bar/restaurant |
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| Hevre serves lovely Czech beer too! |
It is also a very pleasant place to stop for a cold beer after walking around the district.
Beyond Plac Nowy
There is much more to Kazimierz than Szeroka and Plac Nowy.
If you have time, head towards ul. Św. Wawrzyńca and explore some of the less visited parts of the district.
Stara Zajezdnia
The old tram depot has been transformed into Stara Zajezdnia, a popular bar and event space.
It has its own brewery, outdoor seating and, during the warmer months, outdoor events and film screenings.
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| Stara Zajezdnia |
It is particularly pleasant on a warm summer afternoon when the deck chairs come out, and the place becomes much more relaxed.
City Engineering Museum
Nearby, on ul. Św. Wawrzyńca, is the Museum of Engineering and Technology.
If you have an interest in Kraków's transport and technical history, it is worth adding to your itinerary.
Judah Food Truck Square and Street Art
Continue along ul. Św. Wawrzyńca and you will find Judah Food Truck Square.
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| Judah Food Truck Square |
This is classic Kazimierz. An otherwise rather unremarkable piece of urban space has been transformed into a lively food area filled with food trucks, old caravans and converted vehicles.
There is plenty of choice and it makes a good informal place to grab something to eat.
The Judah Mural
Look out for the huge mural entitled Judah.
The mural was created by Israeli artist Pil Peled and appeared in 2013 as part of the Jewish Culture Festival.
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| Judah mural in Judah Food Truck Square |
The image combines a child with a lion. The child represents vulnerability and the inner self, while the lion represents strength, survival and the struggle to preserve Jewish culture.
The New Jewish Cemetery
If you have time for one of the less obvious places in Kazimierz, make it the New Jewish Cemetery.
Many visitors explore Szeroka, visit a synagogue, eat a zapiekanka and then leave. That is a shame, because the New Jewish Cemetery provides one of the most powerful reminders of the community that once lived here.
Located off ul. Starowiślna near the end of ul. Miodowa and is reached by walking beneath the railway line through a small underpass.
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| The New Jewish Cemetery |
A little history: The New Jewish Cemetery was established around 1800 as the older Remuh Cemetery could no longer accommodate Kraków's growing Jewish population. It became one of the city's principal Jewish burial grounds and contains thousands of graves.
The cemetery was devastated during the Nazi occupation, when many gravestones were destroyed and the site was desecrated. The surviving cemetery and Holocaust memorials now provide one of the most moving reminders of the Jewish community that once lived here.
For much more detail on the New Jewish Cemetery, read my dedicated post on it.
Important: visitors should dress respectfully. Men should cover their heads and there are usually kippahs available at the entrance. The cemetery is closed on Saturdays.
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| Holocaust Memorial in the New Jewish Cemetery |
My Take on Kazimierz
Kazimierz is my favourite area of Kraków. It doesn't have the polished grandeur of the Old Town. Some buildings are beautifully restored, but many are graffitied, battered and crumbling. However, uniquely, there are smart restaurants sitting next to buildings that look as though they have been waiting 40 years for somebody to fix the roof.
The area has a personality that you don't get in many other parts of Kraków, or indeed anywhere else in Europe.
During the day you can explore synagogues, churches, museums, courtyards, unique shops, market stalls and historic streets. In the afternoon you can sit in a café or beer garden. Later, Plac Nowy and the surrounding streets become lively with bars, restaurants and music. Support the small local businesses, and help the campaigns to stop an entire section of ul. Jozefa being demolished to be replaced by a tourist hotel
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| Typical Kazimierz, an abandoned entrance way in a crumbling building makes a great bar |
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| Barbecued treats on Plac Nowy at night |
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| Kazimierz evening vibes |
But don't spend your entire visit in the obvious places.
Wander down the side streets. Look inside courtyards. Explore beyond Plac Nowy, Jozefa, Szeroka and head to Plac Wolnica, Ulica Mostowa. Visit the cemeteries. Stop somewhere that looks interesting even if it isn't mentioned in your guidebook.
That is when Kazimierz really starts to make sense.
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| The sacred spring at Skałka |
Also, as it warrants a whole post in its own right, is Skałka. Also part of Kazimierz, it is a haven of tranquility and healing pagan waters. Don't miss!
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| Skałka |
How Long Do You Need in Kazimierz?
I would allow at least half a day if you want to explore properly.
A couple of hours will allow you to see Szeroka, Plac Nowy and some of the main synagogues, but you will miss much of what makes the district special.
Ideally, give yourself a full day if you want to combine sightseeing with museums, cafés, food and the New Jewish Cemetery.
And if you return in the evening, you will see a completely different side of the neighbourhood.
More Kraków Guides
If you are planning a trip to Kraków, have a look around the rest of Krakow Best Guide for more ideas on what to see, where to go and the places that are a little further away from the usual tourist trail.
Enjoy exploring Kazimierz!
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